Progress on T100R

The first thing needed to do this restoration is a kit for polishing the parts as they come off.
I have added a kit and a Dremel 4000 to my Amazon Wish list.

70-4016 Patent Plate http://www.grintriumph.com 
57-1417 Gear Indicator Plate http://www.tri-corengland.com
82-9360 Rear Foot rests  http://www.tri-corengland.com
82-9700 Tank badges http://www.tri-corengland.com


The engine is now out of the frame and on the bench.

Close up, the Aluminium is pretty ropey.

I have polished the clutch adjuster nut and partly polished the rotor cover.

The barrels were very tight indeed. As they are cast iron, you have to be very careful not to chip them, however I made a puller using the cylinder head bolts to provide an even pull across the whole thing.

The pistons were then jammed at the bottom of the barrels but by supporting the barrels and using the crankshaft end nut to move the pistons they gradually came out. The pistons rings are a bit rusty and I will have to consider a rebore after assessing the barrels' condition.

Finally for the day, I have started using 180 Grit to even off the surface of the primary chain case. The photo shows the 180 G stage. I have paper in grades from 180 up to 2000.

 

The Timing case was a bit of a problem. First I had to get the points out, the wires are melted and there is some rust. There is a special tool but a simple puller made from a pice of alloy and a screw of the same thread as the inner thread of the auto advice unit, pulled it of the cam shaft quite easily.

The original cross head screws holding the timing case on were in a bit if a state and one had no cross left at all. I bought a Sykes Pickavant  impact drive off ebay and this made easy work of all but one. One screw had to have the head drilled out and then the case was off. The stub of the drilled one came off easily with a pair of parallel pliers. (A rare and extremely useful tool). There are two oil seal in the timing case and bot of thos will be replaced. A pair of circlip pliers is necessary for the one on the crank shaft end whilst the one behind the auto advance unit just pushed out with a simple drift.

The case is polished and with the primary chain case. I need a new patent plate (available) and one of the three pins is stuck in the case. That presents a bit of an engineering problem to be dealt with later.

 

Timing case. 

Timing side of Engine

Piston

The piston rings on one piston were completely jammed and there is a certain amount of burning visible. The barrel has some ridging where the one piston was seized. On balance I think that a rebore and new pistons are in order.

I have found a shop that does rebores and will take all the stuff there tomorrow or at least fairly soon.

I had to take the cam end nuts of and the crankshaft end nut.

Method:
The cam end nuts are LH thread. The crankshaft one is RH.
Get a rag and catch it up in the timing pinion idler wheel whilst using a socket on the nut. This method shifted all three with only moderate force on socket. (Ratchet handle being knocked with hand).
All three nuts off. Now enquiring about the tool to remove pinions.

Other methods involve jamming crankshaft and  clutch hub by putting a piece of metal between the sprockets as the move in opposite directions or butting a bar between the clutch sprocket and the chain drive.

If the engine is still in frame, you can try locking up final drive.